IF The Tranquerah restaurant sounds familiar, that’s because it’s named after a part of old Malacca where Jalan Tengkera runs through.
Walking into The Tranquerah is like stepping back a century to the heyday of the Peranakan. The decor is classic heritage, with wooden tables and carved wood chairs as well as chairs with steel frames welded with beaten sheets of old billboards.
You can also admire ancient batik print blocks at the back of the restaurant as well as antique wooden door and window frames with peeling paintwork.
The workers don’t mind if you tarry a moment in front of the drinks counter to admire the collection of old cigarette tins, F&N bottles and other collectibles.
THE RECIPES
The Tranquerah menu was conceptualised and developed by celebrity chef Florence Tan, 67, a true blue Nyonya who grew up in Tranquerah, Malacca. It was there that she first showed interest in cooking.
“Of course, all young girls then had to learn culinary skills, but I enjoyed the ‘chores’,” she says with a tinkling laugh.
“My mum and aunts were fantastic cooks, so I was able to learn from the very best.”
At The Tranquerah, you can sample dishes that a typical Nyonya family of old would have every day.
SIP A KEBAYA
As we ponder over the menu, we sip on three refreshing house specialties (RM12.90). Pink Kebaya is a combination of watermelon, lychee and strawberry. Green Kebaya has lime and apple while Yellow Kebaya has the exotic flavour of lemongrass with lemon juice.
Then we nibble on a classic Nyonya appetiser. Pie Tee (RM5.40 for three pieces) is served in a little basket with chilli sauce on the side. It’s a pretty top hat, with a wide rim instead of the usual rimless variety you get these days.
“We make the shells ourselves,” explains Florence. The shells are filled with shredded yambean and carrots with bits of omelette and browned onions.
I can crunch my way through a dozen easily but I refrain as there’s more food on the way. For a sampling of the various dishes, there’s a degustation Nyonya Platter (RM29.90) with six items, pretty sufficient for a meal.
RICE, PLEASE
Nyonya dishes are meant to be eaten with rice, lots of it. I find myself asking for a second helping midway through.
Kerabu bendi is blanched ladyfinger topped with sambal belacan with lime juice and finely sliced shallots.
There are two soups: itik tim and ayam oh. We ask for the former and get chunks of duck simmered with salted mustard, sour plum and tomato in steaming hot soup. It’s bursting with flavours and the tangy taste quickens the pulses.
Malacca Nyonyas are quite particular about fish. Not surprisingly, fish gets a whole section of the menu to itself.
Fish is fried, cooked in curry and stuffed. We try asam fish and fried chilli fish. The former is a tangy treat that brings out the sweetness of the delicate stingray. The sour curry comes with ladyfingers.
If you prefer it dry, try the deep-fried fish. Depending on availability, this can be black pomfret or tilapia. Deep-frying fish is a skill. Here, it’s crisp on the outside and juicy inside. The fish is so well done that you can crunch on the fins, bones and all. It comes topped with a delicious hot chilli sambal. I find this better value for money than the stuffed cincaru (hardtail).
Those who love prawn will love the fruity sweetness of creamy prawn (with shell) with pineapple. “This is my all-time favourite,” says Florence.
Feeling lazy about peeling prawn, I opt for sambal prawn with petai (stinky bean). I do have a penchant for petai but if you don’t, you can have the dish sans petai.
CHOOK CHOICES
Chicken is given prominence in the menu too. Children will enjoy pongteh, chicken simmered with potato in a gravy fragrant with herbs and spices. For a tangy version, chicken sioh is stewed with tamarind pulp.
Any Nyonya worth her spices will offer chicken buah keluak. But this Peranakan specialty is an acquired taste and many people find the strong flavour of buah keluak, a black nut originating from Indonesia, a little too heady for their liking.
Nyonya fried chicken, marinated in a mix of spices overnight, is full of flavour and good to eat on its own too.
GREEN ASIDES
There are plenty of choices for vegetables, from stir-fried kangkung and ladyfinger with sambal to Nyonya mixed vegetables and acar (pickles). But I never miss the opportunity to order the flavoursome kangkung with sweet potato.
Definitely one of the richer treatments of this humble vegetable, the kangkung is cooked in coconut milk and rempah.
The Tranquerah
Where:
62A-G, Red Carpet Avenue, Encorp Strand, Jalan PJU5/22, Kota Damansara, Petaling Jaya.
Tel: 03-6142 4106.
Website www.facebook.com/pages/The-Tranquerah/233497760007021.
Opening hours: Daily, 11am to 11pm.
What’s cooking: Traditional Malacca Nyonya cuisine
Must try: Pie tee, creamy prawn with pineapple, and kangkung with sweet potato
You’ll pay: About RM30-RM50 per person
Atmosphere: Touch of old Malacca
The loo: Clean with heritage decor
Service: Satisfactory
Overall verdict: HHHHH Go give it a try
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